Be honest; if you ski slowly, you will need your bindings to release fairly easily if you fall -- otherwise you risk serious injury.

I’m sort of an experiment for a friend who reps Dynafit as I’ll likely be beating the shit out of these, both inbounds and out so I’ll be sure to report back how they do. I have even come out of Barons on steep traversing in freeheel mode from the heinous twist in the plastic connecting plate. He studied architecture at Taft Junior College. Each to his own, and trying to make on rig work for everything is valid. Free Shipping On All US Orders  /  We Price Match. In 35 years, he's gained expertise in all phases of residential construction, retrofit and remodeling. The latest Marker Demo-bindings now also use a lever for fast & easy adjustment, as does the popular Attack 13 Demo, and latest Salomon Warden Demo. Dynafit lacks slop, and holds up to quite a bit of abuse, but the heel pin to boot interface does show wear when used for hundreds of resort days, as will the thimble bushing inside the heel housing. It doesn’t seem to have gotten worse and I don’t notice it while skiing so I’ve mostly ignored it. This will correspond to a letter code on the chart.

I hauled sleds with 400+lbs of gear, towed behind snowmobiles, skied with 30lbs on my back day-in day-out, high-speed GS turns on groomers… and never had an issue with the binding. Is there a vid somewhere? Slide the toe piece forward on the rails by hand and align the indicator with the appropriate millimeter mark on the binding. I could be wrong, but I've always adjusted the AFD on Barons/Dukes much tighter than that. . The FT 10’s have been great bindings, but sometimes I need a little more spring retention because I am a big guy and an aggressive skier and like to ski at 10 or 11 DIN. It also helps me to keep the tip in contact with the snow as that helps me balance a bit. Much of this depends on the TYPE of use and your EXPECTATIONS if you use a binding as a one-rig setup and really ramp up the amount of days and vertical. var content_container_margin = parseInt('340px'); Each of these settings is critical to the safety and performance of a day on the slopes. Use of this web site constitutes acceptance of the LIVESTRONG.COM One issue I found with the Dukes that is somewhat problematic, the AFD is very fragile. Begin by engaging the boot into the binding and taking a look underneath the toe of the boot. Know you may be asking 'How do I know what my DIN is supposed to be?'

I’ve had to take a knife and dig out all the snow and ice before being able to switch modes. DIN settings based on a skier's height, weight and level of expertise ensure the boots release properly when a skier goes down. The touring binding range for all challenges. Inferior products and the illusion/allure of lower price for the consumer and high volume for the manufacturer are cheating us out of quality and performance. Internet forums for backcountry skiing are great resources for finding out more about your bindings. djk. Like i said its not true but maybe someone with Marker connections can look into or something. Having to take boots out of bindings to change modes is a minor issue for me, but I can understand how a dedicated touring skier would find this annoying. If a calculator is not available, refer to the skier's weight, height, age, expertise and boot length in the columns on a DIN chart to determine the number.

Just mounted up a FT12 on a 105mm Coax, which is a fun and energetic freeride ski that I also run inbounds a lot.

The only drawback for me was having to think a little while entering/exiting the binding.

The AFD is the spring loaded piece on the binding that sits directly under the toe of the boot that allows for a clean release during a crash. Identify the release scale and adjustment knob on the release lever. LIVESTRONG.com may earn compensation through affiliate links in this story. Thanks, Marc, Hmmmm, Marc, the foolproof way to do it is stick a boot in a binding (adjust binding correctly), set the binding on the ski, then mark one of the toe screw holes, you then use that mark to position the template for/aft on the ski.

Thing is, Duke and Baron are truly slackcountry bindings, in that they’re not intended for massive touring use. if (document.title.indexOf('NSFW') > -1) Many of you have asked for a downloadable Duke/Baron mounting template such as the others we’ve developed, so I whipped one up for the tribe. Since you aren’t skinning up to these areas – several thousand feet from a parking lot or road access, you aren’t penalized with the extra binding weight while getting to these places in the first place – that’s really a key point. The above photo is a perfect AFD adjustment. Marker Baron backcountry skiing bindings. As long as you guys aren’t allergic to dogs and little kids. Great power transfer and step-in comfort are the key features for a successful and playful day on the slopes. Interesting discussion. Check it out…, I’ve had Baron’s on Line Prophet 100’s for two seasons.

My Fritches ski great, but only for wider-side-country, still a bit heavy.

For size “S” binding, when using our paper template we do this by measuring between the rearward pair of screw holes on the front plate template, to the front pair of screws on the rear plate template, at 218 millimeters.

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Took awhile, but just wanted to say thanks for all the info and updating the template (the old links above for the template are now dead).

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