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In a proper construction the fit is so tight it must be forced into place. When all soldering and finishing is complete, the cameo is slid into the setting from the back and the internal bezel used to lock it into place. Cutting a bearing into an oval cone is slightly more difficult though the principle is the same. This bearing can also be cut with a Hart bur in the flexible shaft machine, in which case a graver might be used only to even up the walls of the groove.

In both cases the bearing needs to be sufficiently wide to secure the stone, and perfectly level within the setting. Cut a strip of metal, approximately .25 to .35 mm in thickness (27-30 gauge B&S), wide enough to extend over the curvature of the stone when set on its side. Business Directory We also offer an online orchid community which has emerged from this project. The object is anchored by whatever method suits the studio and the stone setter: in the example shown in figure 12.6 it has been attached to a shellac (or pitch) stick. If we imagine the points of a compass, the idea is to press the bezel at north, south, east and west. When using a wheel, run it against an old file to sculpt exactly the correct shape. premium online videos.

A parallel-walled frame is bent as before, by scoring the corners and folding up the form (figure 12.2b). Gold & Platinum Members

2020 In the case of rectilinear stones, use dividers to step off the various planes of the stone’s perimeter, adding a little bit to allow for thickness, then use pliers to make sharp corners.

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A technique in which small stones are held in place with a metal sliver that is beaded over ....... is a technique to set round gemstones in bezels with a punch.   |   And keep in mind that each of these styles could be altered in proportion or metal to create several settings!

The base plate is usually cut flush with the bezel, but there is no reason why it cannot be cut ornamentally. After drawing a guideline around the cone about one-third of the way up from the bottom, a saw or file is used to cut away material from between the prongs.

This important setting, shown in figure 12.12, is a staple in the jewelry industry, and shows clearly how bezels are similar to prongs. I made this video with close up shots so you can watch the entire stone setting process. Well designed stone setting techniques must achieve several goals simultaneously – it must secure the stone, enhance both the gem and the metal object, it must stand up to wear while protecting the stone, and it should harmonize with the aesthetics of the piece. trailer <<96DFD4BBB7824A988E3E64626C742B6F>]/Prev 612038>> startxref 0 %%EOF 142 0 obj <>stream

It is the oldest and largest jewelry making community on the web. Clear thinking on this fundamental question will assist in the many decisions that must follow, including proportion, style, texture, color, location and size. Alternately, this piece may be made by soldering the prong onto sheet or by making the cone a little long, cutting the lower piece away, then reattaching it after the filing is complete. Another variation on a bezel is the “bowed setting” seen in figure 12.9.

After polishing, the stone will appear to have a shining mirror as its frame. After removing any last burs or flaws in the mounting, the stone is pressed into position and checked to see that it touches each prong. Any of the tools seen in figure 12.5 can be used for this – most goldsmiths develop a particular favorite, though all would agree there are times when the surrounding shape makes one choice better than another. To accomplish this, press the bezel toward the stone, then move the tool to a point directly opposite and repeat the process, again pressing the bezel only part way down.

Ganoksin is the worlds largest educational internet site for the jewelry, gemology and metals field. In the end, this is the element that will hold the stone from the front. Note that it is necessary to start with thick metal, not only to allow for the stretching, but because there will be hammer marks that must be filed out. 0000003747 00000 n In both cases there must be sufficient metal above the stone to press over it. Using a flat bezel pusher, push one part of the bezel wall against the stone.

When doing repair work it is best to remove all stones from their settings. Alternately, binding wire may be used to secure the pieces in their correct position. The annealed blank is set into position, the corresponding die is slid into it, and the punch struck with a hammer (figure 12.2c).

In a tall setting like the one shown, use a screwdriver or similar shaped punch to press the bezel wall at even intervals.

Bezels are most commonly used for cabochons, a gem shape that has a flat bottom. This situation is illustrated in the upper right corner of figure 12.11. The surfaces are generally polished, but the fine tooth left by sandpaper has the advantage of gripping onto the metal slightly.

The early steps in making a bezel are shown in figure 12.1. to see supporting businesses and their featured jewelry making Since virtually all light that enters any stone does so from the top, any cut of stone can be set in any kind of setting that will hold it …

For jewellery stone setting, try to gain as much grip as possible. If the setting is too large or too small, it must be fixed or discarded and a new attempt made. It is possible to cut the bearing groove at this stage, though some goldsmiths prefer to wait until after the prongs have been cut out. To determine the length of the blank, calculate the circumference of the top of the intended cone by multiplying its radius times p (3.1416). Fit is everything, not only to allow a proper solder joint, but to hold the piece in position during soldering. The primary purpose of the bearing in this case is to level the stone and hold it in position as the stone is set. An example that will be used here is a shell cameo, and other uses include enamels, coins, found objects, etc. When fabricating a bearing, an inner unit (cone, pyramid or tube) is made in the same way as the outer one, though typically it is slightly thicker. As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases referred from our site.

The hardest part seems to be in finding a starting point – it’s possible to feel your way around the stone several times before the tip of the tool finds a point of entrance. Make an inside bezel and slide it into the larger bezel, using the previously trimmed piece as a guide for filing the inner rim. Orchid Community These are transferred, sawn, scribed, and bent.

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However, this “white wine with poultry, red wine with meat” approach has more to do with convention than practicality or ne-cessity. To prevent the stone from falling out the back of the setting, and at the same time to keep it level, a frame style bezel needs a bearing, or ledge, on which the bottom edge of the stone can rest. Avoid the temptation to check the fit of the stone at this point – because no further mechanical action has been taken, there is no reason why, if it fit before, it will not fit now.

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